Enjoying dinner with the Sherpas in the camp 2 cook tent. Photo Mingma Sherpa.Location: Camp 2
Altitude: 6425m
Local Time: 20:00, May 24
Weather: Fine, -12C at C4
Hi Everyone, It’s Paul here.
Well we are both back down at C2, tired, but glad to be breathing what to us feels like thick air. The climb down from C4 took us about 4 hours, and we have sore toes from hitting the front of our boots. In this update I thought I would share with you the details of my summit attempts.
My first Summit Attempt
We arrived at C4 at about 11am, and then spent until 8pm resting, drinking, eating, activating chemical warmers & warming clothes and boots. (Boots are placed inside the sleeping bag to get them warm.) The wind was steady, but not too strong, however it did buffet our tent a bit. The decision was made to go so Fiona left first at about 9:30pm. I followed her at 10:20pm.
The climb
The first part of the climb is a 45 degree slope, which steepens gradually until it becomes almost vertical rock in some places. After a couple of hours I caught up to Fiona and then two hours later we reached a flat spot called the balcony where we had a rest, some food and water, and changed oxygen bottles. Both of us were feeling really good.
Fiona and I then proceeded along a steep ridge up towards the South Summit. The ridge started off not too steep, but soon we came to a 30m rock section that was nearly vertical. At this stage I was getting cold, so unfortunately I had to go ahead of Fiona to move at a faster pace. Above the wall, there was a more forgiving snow slope leading up to the South Summit of Everest. I was following behind Dasona and he was behind Dennis Kellner. The three of us were moving together well.
Suddenly I found it really hard to keep up with Dennis and Dasona. They could take 10 steps before stopping for a small rest, whereas after 2 steps, I was totally out of breath. I found a less steep spot and put my weight on the rope and tried to catch my breath.
After about 10 minutes, my breathing was not so rapid, but something wasn’t right. A few minutes later I checked the bottle which caches oxygen from the mask and it was empty. Suddenly it dawned on me that I was out of oxygen. I was at over 8700m, with the South Summit in sight. My first thought was not to panic and to concentrate on breathing really deeply. And I mean really deeply.
Gradually I found that no matter how hard I tried to breathe, I was getting out of breath. I started to feel very drowsy and sleepy and I would estimate that over 30 minutes elapsed since I noticed a change in my performance. Fortunately Dasona came back down and hooked me up to his oxygen bottle. This meant that he had to go without. I was so glad of this gesture, because I was really going downhill fast. The effect of the oxygen was dramatic. Within a minute I was feeling much better, although I wouldn’t have been able to stand.
With one oxygen bottle between two people what where we going to do?
Amazingly a very strong IMG Sherpa called Danaru came down from the summit and he, without a second thought, gave up his oxygen bottle. To say I was grateful is an understatement. There wasn’t enough oxygen to continue to the summit, but this was the last thing on mind. I was extremely happy to be alive. At this time Fiona came along and I wished her good luck and told her she had the summit in the bag.
Heading Down
Dasona and I then started walking down. I was a little unsteady on my feet, but we made it down in a couple of hours. I was very relieved to be back at the South Col. This felt like safety, even though it’s still 8000m.
Second Attempt
On my way down, moves were already in place to give me a second shot. I didn’t expect this and am very grateful to IMG. Unfortunately, I would have to go that night as the expedition was drawing to a close. I deliberated about what to do, but in the end I decided that although I was extremely tired, I would regret it if I didn’t at least try.
That day I drank lots of fluids & ate as much as I could. I welcomed Fiona back from her successful summit & becoming the 3rd Australian woman to climb Mt Everest. I am so happy for her. Although tired herself, she helped me get ready that evening.
At 10:00pm I stepped outside my tent and started climbing up. I felt great…..at the start. At 8300m, I started to slow and tire, and it felt different in my legs. I think they were too fatigued from the previous night/day’s exertion. I had a hard choice to make, push on and perhaps work through this pain and fatigue, or turn around. Going through my mind was that if I turn around then and if I want to climb Everest again I am up for another year of training, a two and a half month long expedition to put you at Camp 4 where you hope the weather for that night and day will be kind enough to let you climb. On the other hand I thought that this isn’t just some mountain in the Alps, where you can call in a helicopter rescue at a moments notice; up here you have to be self sufficient. I mean, no one can carry you down if something bad happens. I had already cheated death the night before and didn’t want to try my luck again. I felt that I couldn’t be confident that I was going to be able to get up and down safely, so I made the somewhat difficult, but I think the right decision to turn around and descend while I still could with relative ease.
Lying down here writing this in camp 2, I still think I made the right decision. Normally I climb faster than Fiona, but today decending, she was much faster than me, so clearly I am still not in my normal shape.
The mountain is not going anywhere and I have really enjoyed the expedition, so the thought of coming back is not such a bad one. At least I feel I know what it takes to climb this mountain. I do hope that if or when I do come back, that I can enjoy the tremendous support that everyone looking at this site has shown us.
To good health,
Paul.
PS. Heading down to base camp tomorrow, leaving here at 5am. One more trip to make through the icefall.
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You guys are again in the Hearld Sun today. I was so proud and inspired to read about my amazing brother and sister-inlaw…I still can’t wipe the smile of my face when I think about what you guys have achieved!
Take care on the way down. Love Beck
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Dear Paul,
Congratulations on your sensible decision and on your frank and untroubled account of it. I had a very bad feeling when I heard that you were to make another attempt. Without having met you personally, (though knowing the good Mary), I confess to wondering whether testosterone was edgeing out prudence. So – you have given me your answer. It had not! Well done.
Every best wish,
John Bailey
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Hey Fiona & Paul – It’s been great to read your messages every day. Congratulations! You’re both an absolute inspiration to all of us lazy folk. Thanks so much for sending through the updates and photos (especially after 15 hours of climbing!). It’s been fantastic to be able to experience the climb vicariously through you. Glad to hear that you’re both safe and well.
Enjoy the amazing views and ‘thick’ air 🙂
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Congratulations Paul and Fi,Dasona and Mingma on your achievements.Congrats on being the 3rd Aussie lady to summit Fiona.I’m so excited and inspired by your adventure and totally obsessed with reading your fantastic updates.I trekked in Everest region with my 7 year old son for a month and we loved being in the mountains with the yaks and the Sherpas…what a beautiful place.You are so lucky to have had that experience and we are so lucky that you shared it with the world.Thankyou! I cycle with Jan G. in the Bandidos so I think you picked a great way to condition your lungs for a workout!!! All your hard work has paid off.Well done.
Enjoy your next shower and the bakeries in Namche.
Best wishes,Deb Chambers
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Thanks so much Paul and Fiona for sharing your amazing adventure and wonderful stories with us. You give true meaning to the words High Achievers.
Love the Threadgold Family
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Well done guys…. I’ve been glued to your website for the last week, following your every step. The achievement you’ve made is one that will live with you forever. As you say the mountain isn’t going anywhere…. you’ve got the drive and determination to do it again, if you choose to do so. I look forward to catching up one day and shaking both your hands and having a few beers.
Andy
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Dear Paul and Fiona,
I have just read Paul’s remarkable account of his two attempts to reach the summit and then all the messages posted to you. There is nothing more for me to say except, I agree with all that has been said, I have shed tears as I have read of this incredible adventure.Paul, you did it and you should be so proud of all you have achieved, I know the rest of the world is stunned by your ability to react so positively under such grave conditions.
I wish you a safe descent back to Base Camp and then home to Aus.
Best wishes for a safe return, Glenda.
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I spoke with a member from the 1996 disaster and was wrapped up in your story. I am fascinated with what you are doing and have enjoyed your updates. I was very happy to see FI made it but not sad Paul did not, just happy he went as far as he did given his oxygen situation. Good decision Paul. Great work guys.
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Hiya Fiona and Paul,
Paul so good to hear from you!! I still can’t say that I’m necessarily jealous of either of you but I am so very proud and full of admiration. You’ve also made Nana the superstar of her retirement village…Looking forward to seeing you both soon. With love, Jacqueline
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So reassuring to hear your voices in Camp 2. I have delayed posting as I want to hear that you are past the ice fall, but on re-reading your journey Paul, I just want you to know that your Dad is in awe of you, what you have survived and achieved.
To commit to sharing these unfolding experiences and feelings with your readers, while not knowing the final outcome has made us all feel very special. Paul, Fiona and Mary come home safely!
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Hi Paul – Rather be able to tell the story than not at all… And let’s face it – With out your support Fiona might have had a very different climb. Yours is a story that involved years of training together and it is that partnership that needs to be saluted… All the best for your decent and send South Africa’s regards to the Mother Goddess
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Dear Paul and Fiona,
99.9%of the people in the world have not and could not tread on the very special ground where you guys have just been. Sometimes in life things don’t go exactly as we planned,but Paul you showed the wisdom of a very wise man, not to tempt the mountain too much. Congratulations to Fiona on her summit, and you certainly will share in her success as she no doubt has learnt a lot from your mountaineering partnership over the years.
Everest is not the only mountain in life and you have already conquered and achieved so much in your lives.
Congratulations and safe decent GRD
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Message from the Premier of Victoria
Dear Fiona and Paul
I was please to learn of Fiona’s successful climb to become the third Australian woman to climb Mount Everest and Paul’s valiant effort. Congratulations to you both on your wonderful achievement.
High altitude mountaineering is one of the toughest sports in the world requiring incredible physical endurance, mental strength and courage. To have followed in the steps of Sir Edmund Hillary must be a source of great personal satisfaction.
All the best for a safe return.
Yours sincerely
Steve Bracks
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Paul and Fiona,
Congratulations to you both on your adventure.
Good to know that both of you are safe and well.
Hope to hear more stories from you at Durrant St.
Owen.
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Well done on a brilliant effort and we are glad to hear you are safe after making the right decision! We’ve enjoyed reading about the climb and I can’t wait to hear all the stories first hand (hopefully over a few beers at Luke’s bucks). Well done Paul and Fizz Wizz!
Danny and Kate
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Congratulations to a mighty climb by both of you.It has been fascinating and a privledge to read and enter to what is only a fantasy world for me.Today I sat with friends on Mt. Greville and as we admired the views spoke of your trip and the most wondrous views you would be having.This is a real “Australian Story” . I will be contacting them and hopefully more Aussies can hear your story. Safe travelling!
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Paul
What a fantastic man you are and what a wonderful strength of character to know when enough is enough – well done !!!
sally
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Fi Fi,jim and Dan, way to go. paul,let’s make plans for next year! vic and i are in the keys and expect to have dinner with Tami tonight.
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Have followed your trip up and down Mount Everest and you are a remarkable group. Paul your courage and stamina is outstanding. You are a very wise man. Will miss keeping up on your where abouts but hope you and Fiona have a great welcome home and take time to relax. The pictures have been fantastic. Good one that Dennis took of the three of you. Fiona mentioned of her that got the laughs. Say Hi to Dennis for us and we sent hugs to all of you.
Peggy Brown
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Hi Guys,
A massive congratulations to you all, What an amazing climb! We take our hat off to you both! Enjoy the trek out, enjoy the green, It’s a bit bizzare isn’t it? after seeing blue, grey and white for so long! and biggest congrats to Mary for the great updates, I know the pain and angst of sleeping on rock and ice in the comms tent, did Tuck snore? ; )
Great work! Kindest regards
Rex and Caroline Pemberton
Hi Fiona! congrats on making to the summit.I have a question to ask:Is the summit small and pointy like on pictures?If it is not,what is it like? I am congratulating you on making the summit again.Too bad Paul did not make it.Hope Paul and you are well.
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