Everest day 42 – Camp 2 to camp 3

(writing this from camp 4, 8000m because I forgot to yesterday at c3)

After experiencing the heat going from c1-2 we knew that we needed to leave early because it is the same Western Cwm that is half of the route to c3 from c2. So we woke up at 5:30am for a 6:00am breakfast.

I packed up all of my stuff, whilst Dad left his and just packed a day pack as this is where he would stop moving up on the expedition. We had our down suits on, the first time this year wearing mine. Huge thanks to Montane for gifting me their newest version! I really like how these “suits” are 2 piece because I love being able to take the jacket off. The amount of times I see climbers in 1 piece suits with the arms tied around their waist, is crazy!

We set off from camp 2 at 6500m. The start of the climb today is just an easy walk on some gentle snow slopes. Yes it is still a glacier with huge crevasses if you step too far off the track haha.

It was a little demotivating because for some reason everyone that we saw was already on oxygen from camp 2. So we did have a few people passing us.

Finally after about 1.5 hours we reached the bottom of the Lhotse Face. This is where most people start using oxygen – even though the altitude isn’t thattttt high (6800m) relative to other summits people may have done before Everest without oxygen, the climbing is more demanding here, and we also don’t want to push to go without oxygen and make ourselves more tired before the very big days coming up.

The oxygen always feels a little claustrophobic at the beginning. It’s hot, and when the flow rate is low it can feel like it’s not working and there is just an annoying mask on your face, stopping you from breathing. It is working and does help though, no matter the flow rate.

This was where I said goodbye to Dad. It wasn’t as bad as leaving mum in base camp, just because we were already well and truly on the mountain, and I only had 2 full days away from him.

I continued up with Pemba. To get on the Lhotse Face, we need to climb over the Bergshrund (not sure how to spell!) which in this case is just a steep ice and snow wall, with a huge crevasse underneath. I guess it occurs from a big change in gradient? (Lhotse face to Western Cwm)

The climbing was pretty simple, as there were nice steps up the ‘shrund and we didn’t have to front point our crampons in the ice. We then got on the Lhotse face!!!! Climbing on this face is my favourite part of the mountain (so far!). Pemba and I passed a few people, then found our places in a queue of 15 people or so.

Now, the biggest challenge of the day was the heat!!!! It got soooooo hot on this face! Last time I was here, it was a little bit windy and cold. It’s also very hard to stop, because it is just a very steep face that goes up and up and up, until basically camp 4. I had unzipped my jacket fully, and my 2 mid layers too. I had unzipped the side zips of my pants so my leggings were fully exposed. I had also opened up the armpit zips of my jacket. There was nothing else I could do! It’s so hard feeling so hot, and being so helpless about it.

After another (maybe) hour, I couldn’t take it anymore! At the next rope anchor, I asked Pemba if we could take my jacket off. We have to be so careful because anything that is dropped will keep going. I also had to be careful taking my pack off because the oxygen tube connecting my mask to the bottle is only short. Anyways, we took my jacket off, and tied it to my pack. It felt sooo much better!

It was still only getting hotter. I swear this was top 10 hottest I’ve felt. Gloves were off, but I had to keep my beanie on for a bit of sun protection.

Finally we arrived at camp 3 at 7100m! Pemba and I were one of the first (with Kris) from our climbing agency to get there, so we chose a nice tent. Each company/agency has a dedicated section in each camp (maybe not camp 4!) and the tents get set up by Sherpas at the start of the season, once the ropes get fixed to the various camps.

I thought I was only hot because I was climbing, but no. I sat in a little dip in the snow and took in the view. It’s also important to know that camp 3 is on the Lhotse face. So we have to be very careful moving around. (not that we really get out of our tents apart from going to the toilet, and by the way there is none 🫰). I sat in the sun (with a hat on!!) and drank water and ate what I could. It’s okay being still and not on oxygen at this altitude.

Then I saw Regine and Jakob arrive!! They had taken their jackets off too, and looked boiling. Regine came and sat near me and we chatted and looked at the view. Experienced peak girlhood because my hair tie fell of my braid so Regine gave me one at 7100m :)).

I ate soup, and drank lots of water. Drinking helps to thin out your blood and helps to prevent frostbite.

I climbed mostly behind Kris, from our group, from Norway. We (half) joked in camp 2 before leaving about it going to be a “cake walk” – mix of piece of cake / walk in the park. When we arrived we agreed it was a cake walk! I’d say more of a hot fudge cake walk.

Finally I went into Pemba and I’s tent (that was 30 cm from where I was sitting) and napped a bit.

Some friends from base camp were coming down from the summit so it was so nice to see them. It is hard seeing people in an awful state (sorry if you are one of them reading this hahaha) and knowing you have to go up there. But I try not to think about that, and help them as best as I can.

I had dinner (thanks Radix for the great meals!), tonight was dehydrated green curry, and soup for fluids. After that I organised food for tomorrow, attached my oxygen mask to my bottle, and put my mask on. I turned on the flow rate to 0.5L/min (the lowest flow, as I would just be sleeping) and so did my Sherpa guide. Although I did feel pretty fine resting whilst not on oxygen, the difference with our sleep with and without oxygen is huge! I was going to leave for the summit in less than 24h so it was important that I sleep as best as I can.