The ice fall route is in place
Fiona washes her clothes outside our cook tent in base camp. Photo Paul Adler.
Expedition Leader Mark Tucker makes sure we know how to use all the items in the first aid kit that will be at camp 1. Oxygen, Gamov bag and stretcher will also be in place. Photo Paul Adler
Location: Everest Base Camp
Local Time: 17:25, 13 April
Weather: Overcast, 0C
Hi everyone, its Paul here coming to you from inside our dining tent at Everest base camp, where we have just finished an afternoon snack of popcorn, biscuits, tea and coffee.
The big news today is that the ice fall route is now complete and the first loads have been carried up to Camp 1 by our Sherpas. This is a bit late in the season for establishing Camp 1, but I don’t think it will hold us back. The route to camp 2 is still five days off being in place, however some of our Sherpas are planning to offer assistance to the icefall doctors to speed up the establishment of the route to Camp 2. There are a lot of ladders needed to cross crevases in the Western Cwm and these need to be carried up.
Good map of the camps on Everest
To help you get a feel for the camps on Everest there is a good map on our site. Here
Some of our gear is up in Camp 1
Our Sherpas took two and a half hours to climb to Camp 1 today with tents, food and stoves to establish the camp. They will go up again tomorrow to complete the setup of the camp, so hopefully we could go up the the day after (Saturday). Today there was word that some parts of the icefall route collapsed, so the icefall doctors will have to repair this before they can continue with establishing the route to camp 2.
Do we go up now or wait for Camp 2?
We are a bit undecided as to the best strategy to take. Some people are planning to go up the icefall on Saturday and sleep a few nights in camp 1 and then come back down to base camp. It would be preferable to be able to go from camp 1 to camp 2, but if the route isn't established (no ladders are in place), this won't be an option. We are thinking that if we wait another day or two and then go up, we might be able to time it so that the route to camp 2 is complete. Our plan would then be to go climb to camp 2 and come back to camp 1 and sleep, then the next day go to camp 2 and sleep. We would stay at camp 2 for 3-4 days, climbing a bit higher during the day for acclimatisation, but coming back to camp 2 at night.
It really boils down to how long its going to take to get the route through to camp 2 and then the camp established. Hopefully we can find out more tomorrow.
If we could go to camp 1 & 2 in one trip, we would then have to make just one more trip up through the iceafall to get up to camp 3; the highest point on our acclimatisation program.
Till next time,
Paula Stout - We haven't seen Asian Trekking's camp, but if we do we'll say Hi to Apa Sherpa and Lhakpa "Gelek" Sherpa.
QECV1 - Our Mingma is not the same as the one you were referring to.
MC - We are keen to hear how Chris and Bridget go in Kathmandu. We have heard the the trekkers who came with us into base camp have all got home safely, but one reported having to go to the airport 7 hours before her flight as there was no other transport available. We have heard on the Sherpa grape vine that the curfew in Kathmandu has ended, but you probably have much more current information than us.
Ken - Great to hear from you - from one satellite service to another! Ken lives in a place called Wallace Rockhole which is about 400 kilometres from Alice Springs in the middle of Outback Australia.
Chris - $4 on an engagement ring - surely there was some error in the satellite transmission!
Posted by: Mary and John on April 13, 2006 11:18 PM AEST
We have just arrived home from a great dinner (Saffron Thai)to celebrate Lou's birthday and my leaving. Dame came down this afternoon (still carless) and Beck A as well as Meals and Danny and Lou and Chris were there.
We toasted all included you guys and Tim and Inna.
They all gave me a beautiful red journal (very thick-plenty of time to write!) and a Parker pen and refill.
Am keeping my training up and have been riding/walking etc.
Glad things are moving ahead for you guys.
lots of love
Dad and Mare
Posted by: Dad H on April 13, 2006 11:40 PM AEST
Hi Fiona & Paul,
It's Thursday night here and we have just packed, ready to go to Echuca tomorrow morning. We'll make sure we follow your progress from there. Hope things get sorted out re the route to Camp 2. The uncertainty must be a frustrating but it's got to be better to be certain about things. Which ever way it goes we'll be with you all the way.
Lots of love,
Dad & Mum
Posted by: MC on April 14, 2006 05:33 AM AEST
Hi Fiona and Paul
Well, the curfew has indeed been lifted (great news) and by now you have probably read Chris and Bridget's message from the 13th that all seems to be back to normal. I do know that during the King's curfew (which superseded the "7 party strike") transportation to and from the airport was very difficult. Only some tourist buses, with special permission and also specifying the exact amount of tourists, were able to pass to and from the airport in Kathmandu. Hopefully Chris and Bridget will get through easily and I wish them a safe flight.
Regarding your decision to go now or wait until you are sure that Camp 2 is set up, the latter does seem like the way to go, if possible. It is amazing to me how Everest is as much a mental and intellectual challenge as it is a physical one. All part of this very exciting adventure! As always, wishing you the best! MC
Posted by: paula stout on April 14, 2006 11:16 AM AEST
thanks guys! you can also give tuck, ang janbu and the rest of the regular gang a big hug from sunny california. as john "sherpa" said last night, he and and i would give a fortune to be back there. 2007 can't get here fast enough :) be safe. namaste. p.
Posted by: Judy on April 14, 2006 12:59 PM AEST
Hi Fiona and Paul,
I just love reading your daily updates! It's like a happy soap opera, and so much more exciting! You really are doing all of us armchair mountaineers a great service.
Climb safe, Judy
Posted by: Jeannette Genton on April 14, 2006 01:38 PM AEST
Time to check in with you two if only to say we continue to look forward to your updates every day, even if at 4:00 AM. I have a whole team of Canadians watching with great interest.
Stay well and enjoy every moment.
And a hello from your grandmother - who is still amazed at the whole idea of you being where you are. Merveillieux!
Posted by: The Roe family on April 14, 2006 01:56 PM AEST
Hi Fiona and Paul,
We hope you have a safe climb.We are following your progress it is very interesting.Hope the weather is kind to you. Where we are is very flat,we are in the only town in NSW that Ned Kelly robbed a small town of Jerilderie.
bye for now
the Roe family
Posted by: Chris & Bridget on April 14, 2006 03:10 PM AEST
Hope it isn't too cold! Why don't you follow the english grandmothers approach and just go straight to the top (avoid all the pesky camping in tents along the way!)
We are planning to go to the monkey temple in Kathmandu today. We are limiting our sightseeing a bit due to the political situation (but we ourselves have not experienced or seen any problems at all - just what we have seen in the media).
Bought a North Face polar fleece yesterday for AUD $10 to replace my 'Hobo' red one!
Have emailed Mary and have let her know what gear we will be leaving for her.
Had a great celebratory dinner at Kilroy's last night. We also went to the Thai place again for lunch - it was weird being there without you guys.
To india tomorrow! It will be 38 degrees in Delhi (bit hotter than Base Camp).
In Aus news Patick has agreed to be taken over by Toll.
The AWB wheat thing is also still big news.
Chris & Bridget
Posted by: Kerry on April 14, 2006 03:46 PM AEST
Good Friday here. The updates are amazing. Best wishes for the next few days and making the necessary calls on Camp 2.
Life is Melbourne is good for me right now, St Kilda won last night though I slept through the last stages of the match (on the couch), so I guess you could say I'm settling into the long Easter weekend! Fi - I'm back into the hot room yoga "Bikram" its great fun.
Sasha Close had a baby girl this week - Alice Jane - Sash and the little one are doing fine.
Christian and I are starting to get oragnised for our trip the UK and USA July / August. Given our success at the Performing Arts Market in Adelaide in February, I'm now thinking I'd like to use the time to continue following up on the international relationships I established there. I'm also working on the UK Tour of Gilgamesh in 2007 - which is coming together quite nicely.
Thinking of you heaps.
Love Kerry xoxo
Posted by: Jason Stringer on April 14, 2006 04:48 PM AEST
Hey Paul & Fi,
Just logged on from Singapore on my way to Thailand for Brian & Denise's wedding. Sounds like you are both doing well.
Went past a bar here last night called the Esky. From 30 degrees outside to -5 degrees in the main bar: -18.6 in the super cold bar! We donned puffy jackets and toughed it our for 15mins. Now I know what it must feel like up there!
Best of luck with the climb.
Posted by: Jan, Damian, Amber on April 14, 2006 06:06 PM AEST
G'day fi and Paul from rainy melbourne on Good friday - hope it stops for the bike ride tomorrow. Nice to see fi is keeping on top of the domestic chores. Wishing you both clear skies and a safe trip up to camps 1 & 2.
Have a great trip, Mary.
Lots of love, Jan, damian and Amber XX
Posted by: Edwin, Rosie and Jordan on April 14, 2006 06:17 PM AEST
Jacci just showed us your site and we wanted to wish you luck for the big ascent! See you safe and sound at the wedding. Edwin, Rosie and Jordan Jones
Posted by: KEN PORTER on April 16, 2006 08:29 PM AEST
HI PAUL & FIONA
IT GOOD TO HEAR FROM YOU AND GET THE UPDATES ON YOUR PROGRESS ON THE CLIMB HAVE A GOOD EASTER . THIS WILL NOT BE AN ATTEMPT TO CLIMB THE HILL YOU WILL CLIMB IT TO THE TOP AS THAT IS THE ONLY WAY I WILL GET UP TO THE TOP IS ON THE NET WITH YOU .
FROM KEN PORTER ALICE SPRINGS
Posted by: Caroline and Rex Pemberton on April 18, 2006 10:57 AM AEST
Hi Paul and Fiona!
Best of luck with the climbing and the weather this season on Everest, Rex and I have our fingers tightly crossed you guys get perfect conditions.
Say a big big aussie hello to Tucker Man, and tell him we miss him dearly! "Headache, Nausea, Vomiting" I'm sure you know what I mean!
Cheers guys, keep your spirits high
Caroline and Rex Pemberton