Hiked out to the bottom of the Lhotse Face
Fiona at the bottom of the Lhotse face. Climbers on the right hand side are starting up the fixed ropes. Photo Paul Adler.
One of the crevasses we crossed today. Photo Fiona Adler.
Location: Camp 2
Local Time: 17:30, April 29
Weather: Warm & clear, -13C in tent overnight, 3C now
Hi Paul here, today we hiked over to the base of the Lhotse face. It was absolutely amazing - really steep, with hard blue glacial ice glistening in the sun. The base of the Lhotse face is at an altitude of 6,650m, and we covered this from C2 in a little under one and a half hours. Although it really got us breathing hard, we can already feel an improvement operating at this altitude since we arrived at camp 2.
It was good see that Mary was able to post a message yesterday that she is in Namche Baazar. The climb up to Namche is long and steep, but the good thing is that we think it's the hardest part about getting to base camp.
Our current plans
We have finished everything we wanted to do on this acclimatisation rotation. Tomorrow we will go back down to base camp, where we will enjoy good food and a long overdue shower. After four days rest we will come back up to camp 1 and then camp 2. After a rest day, we hope to climb half way up the Lhotse face to camp 3, where we will spend a night. The next day we will climb on oxygen up to the Yellow Band, to practise with all the gear and then descend back to camp 2 and base camp. Once we have done this, then we will wait at base camp for a suitable period of good weather to attempt the summit.
My throat, chest and voice are nearly 100%, and I feel much stronger when climbing. Going through the icefall earlier this week was hell for me, as everytime I took a deep breath I would cough hard, and I think this is what caused the soreness experienced that night and the next day. I am still using the codeine whenever we are out. Fiona is feeling fine. Things are certainly looking up!
Other IMG movements
Dan arrived at camp 2 today, having spent last night at camp 1. He and JF and a few other people are here waiting for C3 to be ready (route is in, but no IMG tents are up yet). Dennis went down to base camp yesterday. As always Denns is looking extremely fit and strong. Jim and Jack went down this morning to base camp.
Thanks again for all your messages of support and encouragement. We usually collect the emails and post the update just before dinner (6pm Nepal time), so we bring the pda into the dining tent and share the messages with everyone. It is a highlight of the day.
Carla - We don't know when we will summit, but according to our plan we will have finished our camp 3 acclimatisaton rotation & be back in basecamp around May 10, so around May 15 would be the earliest we could start for the summit.
Hi Marie, Its good to hear from you all the way from France.
Hi Tam, Don't know what bag suck is, but we'll see if Dennis has any ideas when we see him tomorrow!
James, Passed on your messages to Jim, He loved hearing from you.
Hi Dave, Fi had a good laugh at your message.
Rosemary and Dave, Yes Fiona is using the wee like a bloke device! She is a convert, but I think it's best if she explains it. The big over-gloves we made out of a sleeping bag will be used on the summit bid only. They are too big and clumsy to use while climbing, but will be good if we have to wait in any queues at bottlenecks (eg. Hillary Step). Some Nak cheese is Ok and tastes like ordinary tasty cheese, its just this one variant that is particulalry strong. (It's just like how not all cow's cheese smells the same.)
Hi Rach, Kez and Jac, Fiona wishes she could be there with you. Have a good one.
Hi Michelle, Jim's cough has now been classed by the HRA as Khumbu Cough, so it's not really bronchial anymore. His voice sounds normal too.
Hi Karlyne, We do have really good sleeping bags that are rated to -30C, so at -13C inside the tent we have to sleep with them unzipped a bit! We won't be taking our bags above C2, so we will be sleeping in our down suits.
Hi Miranda, Got your SMS as I was writing this. Good to hear from you.
Hi Mike, The winds haven't been strong up high. In fact Dasona reckons that today and yesterday would have been perfect summit days.
Hopefully coming to you tomorrow from a warm base camp,
Posted by: Mary on April 29, 2006 11:48 PM AEST
Rest day in Namche but I went up to Khumjung and Khunde (some rest!!) but it was great. Went to the hospital and school Edmund Hilary built. HE has done so much for the people here. HE is greatly revered and comes here every year. Met a NZ couple who are also going to EBC with a NZ company.
Glad you guys think the Namche climb was the hardest..doesn't make me feel so bad. My guide Tashi says I am not the very slowest he has guided!! There are many more slower than I am he said.
Thrilled you have accomplished so much in the last couple of days. Looking forward to seeing you, not sure when I will get the next internet connection. See you soon. lots of love Mare
Posted by: Michael on April 30, 2006 12:34 AM AEST
Sorry to here Jim's Throat is not to good, guess he can't be in the musical,Stay well be safe.
Posted by: Chris and Bridget on April 30, 2006 12:58 AM AEST
Congratulations guys sounds like everything is going really well! Enjoy the well earned rest.
Chris & Bridget
Posted by: Carissa O"Gara on April 30, 2006 02:01 AM AEST
Hi Fiona and Paul,
We follow your daily updates with much anticipation (reminds me of our addiction to the Tour de France in the summer-but your journey is so much more than the tour). We feel we know you throu your writing and photos and look forward to meeting you! This message goes to our buddy Jim Gagne. Hey Jim! We have been hanging out with Michelle-doing some cycling and catching up. I baked a blueberry pie today for Michelle and promise to make strawberry shortcake when you get back. Fiona's 10 best and 10 worst reminded me of our 7 reasons Jim will summit...Your in our thoughts each day. Hugs and love, Carissa and Mick
Posted by: Steve on April 30, 2006 03:45 AM AEST
Thanks for your writings. I look forward to reading your latest. I wish that I could be there as well, but maybe someday. In 1996 I followed the Nova/Imax updates on Everest and was one of the first around me to hear of the tragedy that year. I wish you the best of luck.
Posted by: MC on April 30, 2006 10:17 AM AEST
Hi Fiona and Paul
Things are going so well; I am very excited for you. The Lhotse face looks steep and beautiful. Your climbing plan sounds solid; glad to hear that you are both acclimating nicely up to this point. And great news that your throat, voice and chest are almost 100%! Keep climbing strong and resting well.
Mountains are measured for their height but the achievements of one who climbs the tallest mountains are unmeasurable. MC
Posted by: Michael and Mary Ruth on April 30, 2006 11:28 AM AEST
Hello Fiona and Paul, your website is fantastic and wishing you all the best with the climb, we shall be watching!
Posted by: Ron Munro on April 30, 2006 11:57 AM AEST
Hi Paul and Fiona, Glad to hear that yor throat is now OK and to learn that Mary is making good progress. I can imagine the excitement when you meet up. Ron
Posted by: Mark R on April 30, 2006 12:14 PM AEST
Hi Fi and Paul,
That pic of the Lhotse face was awesome! And it must be just immense to see it up close like that. In a few days you'll be going up that face....way cool!
Hope you have a safe trip down thru the Icefall, and when you read this you're safe and sound (and exhausted!) back in Base Camp.
Posted by: Sandy and John McCarthy on April 30, 2006 12:35 PM AEST
Wonderful that you have already accomplished so much of your plan and feel focused on what will come next.We has our group night last night at the Addisons and we all listened to a tape of your 774 interview-and felt very proud of you both. Fiona , with a mother who is keen to hang glide , and a father who can play the piano beautifully even after several lubricating red wines , as he did last night, how can you be anything but intrepid, creative and successful -It's in the genes!! With Mary trecking in to support you,and Paul's Dad , siblings and of course,Mama, mentally taking every step with you ,it's certainly a family climb!
Love and support to you both, from Sandy and John
Posted by: Jazmine Lawrence on April 30, 2006 02:25 PM AEST
Hey! Just found out today that you guys were on Everest. How exciting! I love your website. Easy to find on Google.
I can't remember if we've ever actually met. I was at the University of British Columbia a few years ago when you passed through Surrey to visit my mom. Just to let you know what I'm up to: I'm training as an air navigator in the Canadian Forces in Winnipeg, Manitoba. I just got married last year. My husband, Ryan, is just finishing his training as an aerospace engineer, also in the military, and is moving to Ottawa next month to work on some new helicopters we're getting. My training won't finish until September.
I'll be keeping up with how your climb is going. I'm glad I heard about it before all was said and done. I'm thrilled to get to tell people I have relatives climbing Everest.
Posted by: Deborah Griffith on April 30, 2006 03:06 PM AEST
Give Dan a big hug from me when you see him. Let him know how proud we are of him. Thanks so much for all the information your posting.
Good luck on your climb!
Posted by: Jacqueline and Mark on April 30, 2006 03:31 PM AEST
Hi Fiona and Paul,
Very happy to hear that everything's going along so smoothly, or sounds like it is anyway! Big congrats on getting to C2 and enjoy and recharge with the upcoming rest. Always on our minds, J & M
Posted by: Kerry on May 1, 2006 09:17 AM AEST
G'day, the girls lunch was great fun. We've solved all the big questions over a good amount of coffee and breakfast fare. Glad to hear the last few days have been so fruitful. Enjoy the "down time". Love Kerry xo
Posted by: jill carter on May 1, 2006 10:27 PM AEST
I have sent a message a couple of days ago but I don't think you got it. Anyway good on you for achieving this far. The rest at base camp will be helpfull to get your strength up for the big challenge later.
Posted by: stephanie zschokke on May 4, 2006 01:15 PM AEST
Hi Paul and Fiona,
My last e-mail sent before I was finished so I will start over....
I know you do not know me, but I have a significant interest in climbing Mount Everest and am just a "regular" person growing up in Minnesota with liitle Mountain exposure. But have been following your daily ascent with much excitement, hope, aspirations.
Your climb has been so inspirational giving my significant other and I promise to one day climb the mountain. We send all our wishes and prayers your way and hope you know no matter how difficult your challenges you are such an inspiration to others. Thank you for setting up your website and sending out to others your story, which otherwise can never be known by others (including your pictures).
I know you have worked hard for this and (weather permitting) you will make the summit! We're with you in spirit all the way!
Dave and Stephanie.