In March 2006, Paul Adler and Fiona Adler left for their attempt to climb Mount Everest. 

We posted live updates here throughout our climb, as well as during the final stages of our preparation.  We hope that this helped our friends, family and other interested parties to experience the adventure with us along the way.

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Back up to Lobuche

Our room here in Lobuche. Photo by Paul Adler

Location: Lobuche
Altitude: 4910m
Local Time: Tues 11th April
Weather: Overcast, up to 10C

Hi everyone, it's Fiona here,

Today Paul and I left our low altitude respite lodge and headed back up the Khumbu Valley to Lobuche.

Today's Trek
After a breakfast of eggs on toast, we set off this morning towards Lobuche. At first we were dismayed because the uphill climbs still feel like such hard work and we were dissappointed that
we hadn't acclimatised better. However, we soon noticed that we are taking much less time to cover the same amount of ground (up to twice the speed of our first ascent here). That made us feel much better! In fact we went from Pheriche to Lobuche in 2 hours and ten minutes.

We rested for a while in Dugla and chatted to a couple of Aussies we bumped into. Then continued up to Lobuche where we met up with the portion of our climbing group who had been away from base camp for the last week climbing Island Peak. They seem like they've had a great trip and everyone of them made the summit. Congratulations all, and farewell to those Island Peaker's and Trekkers that have now descended!

We're all staying at the same lodge so we had lunch with them and then played some very silly word association games (very difficult and funny when you throw in the language and cultural differences) and another game that would be much more fun with a bottle of Schnapps and shot glasses! After we all tired of this, we retreated to our rooms for naps and reading. I think I have already read more novels on this trip than I have in the last 10 years!

The Political Situation Here
You may have heard news of the political situation here so I thought I'd give you a perspective from here.

In Kathmandu the Maoists' planned strikes and curfews seem to have gone ahead as planned. These are not targetted at tourists and we believe that most tourist services are still operating (airports, taxis, hotels, etc). However that doesn't mean that the activity is not having an effect on tourists. We dropped in at the medical clinic in Pheriche today and were told that a Swedish trekker was seen yesterday suffering from HAPE. When they tried to get a helicopter in to evacuate her, they found that the pilot wasn't able to get to the airport, so they couldn't evacuate her. Fortunately the treatment they gave her overnight worked very well and she was able to trek out today but it could have been disastrous.

As far as we can tell from speaking to people, there is currently no Maoist activity past Lukla (the town we flew into). There is a scant report about curfews in Lukla and two people being abducted there but no-one seems to have any real knowledge about whether this is true.

In the Annapurna trekking region (not near us but very popular with trekkers), the Maoists are very active but so far there has not been any violence - despite the fact that they carry weapons. Apparently, they come into lodges and demand a certain amount of money per person - for which they issue a receipt. If they again ask for money, they are satisfied if they are shown a receipt. It doesn't seem too bad at the moment but could easily get out of hand. Hopefully the demonstrations in Kathmandu will end soon so that the city can return to normal.

Answers to some Questions
Kerri - the bathing facilities here would definitely be classed as appalling by your standards but considering what we're working with, I've been pretty impressed. At basecamp, our group has set up a shower tent (complete with changing area), and provided you give a bit of notice, you can have a hot shower long enough wash your hair. Definitely no hairdrier though and by the time I'm finished here, I'll be very much looking forward to a long bath!

We were also asked whether we've seen any dogs around. There certainly are lots of dogs on the trek in and one of our team members reported going to his tent after dinner one night to find a dog curled up in the vestibule of his tent. Someone else reported having seen a dog halfway up the icefall on a previous trip. We've also seen dogs at high altitude on other mountains - on the top of Aconcagua and on Mont Blanc. I think sometimes they are in training for avalanche rescue, but other times it is a bit of a mystery what they are doing up there. The dogs here seem to be more scavangers than pets so we are keeping well away from them in case they carry diseases.

Someone else asked about sleeping at basecamp. We found the first few nights to be pretty restless and yes, we've both woken up on various occasions gasping for air (this is called Chetenne Stokes breathing). But now that we're pretty acclimatised to that height we're both sleeping well (aside from having to get up to go to the toilet because we're drinking so much during the day!)

Well, that's all for now. Hope everyone back home and logging in here is well.



Posted by: Daryl on April 11, 2006 11:29 PM AEST

Hi Paul and Fiona
i look forward to your messages and particularly the photos each day.
keep focussed - the best predictor of what someone can achieve is what they've achieved in the past - needless to say your accomplishments to date have been amazing
not long and you'll be on top of the world - literally

Posted by: Andrew and Liz Sutcliffe on April 11, 2006 11:43 PM AEST

Hi Guys,
Seems life is treating you pretty well. We went to another talk at AG (Australian Geographic) tonight by Peter Wells who summited Cho Oyu last year. There is a young Phillipino called Rommi at base camp who is hoping to the first to summit Everest. If you bump into him tell him Peter sends his regards. There is also a young OZ (15yrs old) who is also attempting to be the youngest to summit Everest and according to the Melbourne Uni site when you guys are succesfull you will be the first Australian husband and wife team to summit so it seems 2006 is a year of first's. Hope it continues to go well for you.

Posted by: paula stout on April 12, 2006 01:25 AM AEST

Hi there...i'm a 2005 everest expedition alum and, apparently now, an addict. :) Can't seem to get enough of the news and really appreciate your being so diligent with the updates. Please know you've got a fan following in the US as we have enjoyed reading about your adventures so far. Thanks again! p.

PS: if you find yourself near Asian Trekking's camp, please give Apa Sherpa and Lhakpa "Gelek" Sherpa many namastes and hugs from their friends in Palo Alto.

Posted by: MC on April 12, 2006 04:54 AM AEST

As always, I so enjoy the pictures. It truly helps to get a better perspective of your surroundings.
I've been following the political situation for awhile and the strike was originally planned for April 6th-9th. It is unfortunate for trekkers currently in Kathmandu and nearby villages; and of course for the local people. I hope it will end soon. It is nice that you arrived early and were able to get past these "hot" areas before the strike began. All the shops are closed so trekkers are not able to get supplies, etc. And transportation is a big issue as you mentioned. On a positive note...wishing you continued success. MC

Posted by: Kathy Genton, Nicole and Denis from Canada on April 12, 2006 05:29 AM AEST

Paul and Fiona, thank you for keeping your daily journal filled with your news. We are living this awesome adventure through your eyes! Hoping for good weather for you and wishing you all the best. Take care and most of all have a blast!

Love Kathy

Posted by: Chris and Bridget on April 12, 2006 07:12 PM AEST

Hi Guys, we are in Lukla now. Just got beaten by Pasang at snooker.

The polish guys were apparently below lukla, and the 'Maoists' wanted USD 280 which they wouldn't pay - when they paid they were released.

Curfew in Kathmandu 11am to 6pm apparently - will find out tomorrow what that is like! may be confined to the hotel (internet). Curfew in Lukla is 6pm.

From The Age:
PM to appear at Cole inquiry
Prime Minister John Howard says he is "happy" to appear before the Cole inquiry tomorrow.
Labor calls for Downer's scalp
Vandals douse Shrine's sacred flame
Aboriginal protesters in Kings Domain condemn vandals who damaged the nearby Shrine of Remembrance with beer.
Costello signals little change on tax
Federal Treasurer rules out major changes as he unveils an international tax comparison.
Doctors test baby Maria
East Timor's tiniest heart patient arrives in Sydney's Children's Hospital with the hope of life-saving surgery.

Hope you are well rested.


An Aussie playing snooker in the Lukla pool hall attracted a little bit of attention! So we got to meet lots of kids even if Chris couldn't pull the game off.
Not to make you wish you were here, but we just had lunch at the bakery ... 'nuff said.
The walk down was great - it is so strange to be back in a town, with trees, birds and warm air. The walk down was much more tiring than we thought - longer days, but I guess also just because the end was near.

Finally, Chris bought me an engagement ring in Namche. It's Tibetan "jade". He bargained them down from A$5 to A$4. I am very happy!

Off to read Sir Ed Hillary's book now which we've just bought here in Lukla.

Hope all's good in base camp